The small town of Köycegiz is a quiet refuge set on a broad, placid lake. The ambience here is unlike that of any other Turkish Mediterranean tourist town.

Perhaps it's so placid because it's nowhere near a Mediterranean beach. The lake is the source of the Dalyan Çayi (Dalyan Creek) which runs through nearby Dalyan to the south, past the ruins of ancient Caunos, through the fishing weirs, and into the Mediterranean.

There's not much to do in Köycegiz except stroll along the lakeshore, have tea in a cafe, browse the market (which is what the occasional bus- or boatload of tourists does) and perhaps enjoy a bit of music in one of the few small bars at night.

The big thrill—such as it is—is having a mudbath at the Sultaniye Kaplicalari (hot springs), 30 km (19 miles) by road to the southwest, or a short boatride across the lake. Boats will also take you south to Dalyan, Caunos, and Iztuzu Beach, should you want to use quiet Köycegiz as your base.

Buses run frequently between Köycegiz and Marmaris and Fethiye, and minibus dolmuses run frequently to Marmaris, Ortaca (change to a Dalyan minibus), Dalaman (with its airport) and Mugla.

The harbour of Köycegiz

The coast promenade in Köycegiz

The Dalyan Delta